You style your curls with gel, let them dry and expect that hard, crunchy layer. But nothing happens. No cast, no crunch, anywhere in your curls. Sound familiar? You're not alone. At Curls Control we get this question from time to time. The good news: in almost all cases it's not the product, but the way you apply it or the condition of your curls. In this blog we explain what a cast actually is, why it sometimes doesn't form and how to get one after all.
What exactly is a gel cast?
A cast is the hard, transparent layer that a gel such as the Curl Definer from Curls Control forms around your curls as they dry. The gel seals your curls: it locks them in, so to speak, so that as much moisture as possible stays inside your curls while they dry. The cast then provides really good hold and gives your curls extra bounce. Once your curls are completely dry, you break the cast by gently kneading (scrunching) your curls. What's left are defined, bouncy curls without frizz. So no cast also means: less moisture retention, less hold, less definition and curls that drop faster.
You can easily crunch the cast out with your hands. Our advice: use the pure, 100% organic argan oil from Curls Control. Put a few drops in your hands, rub them warm to activate the essential eucalyptus oil and scrunch (squeeze) the cast out of your curls. Extra tip: squeeze, don't rub. If you rub, the curl clumps separate and you create exactly the frizz you don't want.
4 reasons why you're not getting a cast
1. Build-up in your curls Layers of product residue, silicones, sebum, oils from your own scalp and impurities can accumulate on your curls. That layer prevents the gel from adhering properly, so it doesn't dry hard. Build-up is by far the most common cause. Read in this blog what build-up is exactly and how to get rid of it.
2. Too much leave-in or cream under your gel Do you use a lot of Moisturizer or Curl Crème before applying the gel? Then that layer can become saturated. The Curl Definer sits on top of the product layers and can't do its job.
3. Curls that are too wet Gel needs moisture to spread properly, but dripping wet curls dilute the gel so much that there's too little left to form a cast.
4. Too little gel Simple but true: with too small an amount of gel, a continuous layer can't form around your curls. Especially with long, thick or high-porosity curls, you need more product than you think.
Every head of curls is different. Length, thickness, curl type and porosity all determine how much product you need and which technique works best. The Curl Definer from Curls Control is truly great, but even the best product needs the right technique. That's why we're giving you two methods to try below.
Method 1: applying gel in two layers
This method follows the last step of your routine, after the Curl Crème.
- Take some Curl Definer in your hand and dilute it with a little water.
- Apply the product with praying hands over your curls or scrunch it in.
- Brush through your curls so the product is evenly distributed. Scrunch your curls and style them into shape right away if you like.
- Apply a second layer of Curl Definer and distribute it evenly again. Your curls will already feel slightly drier.
- Dry your curls with a diffuser or let them air dry.
Method 2: remove moisture first, then an extra layer of gel
Still no cast with method 1? Then try this variation.
- Take some Curl Definer in your hand and dilute it with a little water.
- Apply the Curl Definer with praying hands over your curls or scrunch it in.
- Brush through your curls so the product is well distributed and style them into shape if you like.
- Squeeze most of the moisture out of your curls with a soft cotton cloth or microfibre towel. Don't rub, just squeeze gently. Do leave some moisture in your curls.
- Now apply a more generous layer of Curl Definer than you're used to and distribute it well. Your curls should no longer make a wet, squishy sound.
- Dry your curls with a diffuser or let them air dry. Keep your hands off your curls while they dry, otherwise you'll break the cast too early.
Breaking the cast: here's how
Are your curls one hundred percent dry? Then break the cast by gently scrunching your curls upwards. Use the pure, 100% organic argan oil from Curls Control: put a few drops in your hands and rub them warm to activate the essential eucalyptus oil. Then scrunch (squeeze) the cast out of your curls. Remember: squeeze, don't rub, otherwise the curl clumps separate and you create frizz all over again. The result: soft, defined curls that last for days.
Frequently asked questions about the gel cast
How long does it take for a gel cast to harden? Air dried, it takes two to four hours on average, depending on the thickness of your curls and the amount of product. With a diffuser on a low setting, you're usually done within 30 to 45 minutes.
Is a gel cast bad for your curls? No, quite the opposite. The cast protects your curls against frizz while they dry, locks in moisture and preserves the curl shape. The Curl Definer from Curls Control is CG-friendly and contains no sulfates, silicones, parabens or drying alcohols.
Do I always have to break the cast? Yes, otherwise your curls will keep feeling hard and stiff. Only break the cast once your curls are completely dry.
Will I get a cast with any amount of gel? No. Too little gel won't give you a cast, and neither will too much leave-in underneath. Build up your routine step by step and test what your curls need.
Still no cast?
Visit a Curls Control salon partner near you, which you'll find on our website under the store locator, or send an email to info@curlscontrol.com with your curl type, the length of your curls and your current routine, and the Curls Control team will personally help you figure it out.
